No3 Kastrup silk top

I was given this wonderful pattern by Nanna, a taylor and patternmaker with the blog and shop called How to do fashion.
Nanna is so skilled and pays lots of attention to details. I love it.

The pattern arrived in its own cardboard envelope including the pattern and a label with "How to do fashion". You find the instructions for the pattern on Nannas webpage.

The pattern comes with lots of cute details. It feaures double layer cap sleeves, princess seams, raglan sleeves and a back slit. Everything is constructed and finished so clever - the true mark of a real taylor.

I took my time sewing this pattern. I wanted it to be just right. I had a lux dark blue navy stretch silk in my stash, I had been saving for a special project and this was it. I truly love this top even though I'm not quite sure the stretch silk was a good idea. The raglan sleeves came in a bit wobly due to the stretch factor. This is not something that will prevent me from wearing this top, but when I make it next time, I'll be sure to use non-stretch lightweight drapy fabric. I still learn a lot from every sewing project - and I really love when a pattern can learn you a new construction method.

On another note - I made some pretty boring black basic seperates which you can see in this blogpost too. A black wool stretch skirt made from a Burdastyle pattern. Nothing much to say about that, but it sure is comfy due to the stretch factor. On the last photo you get a glimpse of my new woolen pants. This is my first dip into pantsmaking (sweatpants aside). They are not perfect fit-wise, but definitely better than most of my RTW pants. I used a pattern from Burdastyle september issue from 2013 #136. It has a sidezip. At some point I would like to make a pair with a regular fly opening.

Thank you so much for giving me the pattern Nanna.

Happy sewing

Mette

Blue silk shirtdress

Hello again sewing friends - and random family members:)

Nothing much is happening on this blog - because I've been sewing like a maniac the last few month. When it comes to choosing between sewing and blogging, sewing always win. This dress was finished at least a month ago and have had few outings.

The dress is from the Burdastyle Magazine from august 2015. I was immediately attracted to the kimonosleeves and loose tent like shirtdress appearance. Nothing beats a tent - it's easy to fit and wear - and I like the sillouette - at least with a belt..

Would you look at that fabric. I bought in a shop on Montmartre in Paris this summer. It's a 100% lightweight silk with a large paisley pattern.

Construction wise the dress was fun to sew. I like sewing the collar and all the nitty bits in a shirtdress. The hidden button placket took me a while to figure out - because Burda! No clear instructions. It came together in the end and I'm happy with the result.

This pattern is a plussize pattern size 44. Since I'm a 40-42 and I didn't size down it's a bit more oversized than the pattern suggests. I added an extra hidden button above the button placket to spare colleagues a boobflash at meetings - I'm nice that way:)

I didn't change the shoulders since this is a kimonoshape and since I wouldn't know how to alter the collar to a smaller size. Lengthwise I cut of my usual 10-12 cm. This is a common alteration for me, since I'm a shorty (and chubby).

Sorry about the blurry photo of my backside - my photographer needs a course, but he doesn't seem that interested in developing his skills...

Even though this lightweight silk isn't very suitable for the danish fall and winter, I think I'll use it anyway with tights, boots and a cardi.

I have a long backlog of unblogged garments so stay tuned for the next few weeks - esp. if you are into blurry photos:)

I hope your fall sewing is coming along as well. I'm still quite excited about my plans for fall sewing and have completed quite a few items from my list (- and quite a few not on my list too).

Happy sewing

Mette

The Sew What Club: Cocoon Dress for girls

I guess I'm on a girls dress sewing binge these days - or maybe just procratinating on the black wool pants I'm working on for myself?

Anyways, these cocoon dresses were the reasons why I signed up to The Sew What Club. The pattern is drafted by the famous and ever cool Groovybabyandmama. And who doesn't crave just a bit of Trine's effortless style? As you see, I do - I even used the same fabric as Trine, since I already had the grey terry in my stash. I'm such a pathetic fangirl!

I guess effortless photography is not a thing around our house. These were the best photos of hundreds.. Sigrid never misses an opportunity of making funny faces.

Here you get a better glimpse of the pattern. The patterns features a simple cocoon shape, elbowlength sleeves and shoulder ruffle. The dress hemline is shorter in the front.

I made a few changes to the pattern:
- lengthend the sleeves to 3/4 length
- finished the grey dress with ribbing in the neckline, since the neckline was a bit big for Sigrid.
- finished the shoulder ruffle on the grey dress with my overlocker
- made the shoulder ruffle of the blue dress in double layer, since the fabric I was using was white on the backside. This makes the ruffle a bit stiffer
- For the blue version I used a cotton jersey instead of the recommended heavier fabric.

It took me about 1,5 hour to make a dress like these. If you leave out the shoulder ruffle you could make it even quicker. I'm sure this will be my go to pattern for everyday dresses for my girls. I'm a bit hesitant to use too much time on childrens clothes since their span of life is often so short. The children grow and they wear their clothes hard.

I have one more girls dress coming up. I'm working on a shirtdress for Selma in a lovely Atelie Brunette Cotton. I bought the cotton to make a shirtdress for me, but she pursuaded me to make it for her instead... I must teach her to sew her own soon!

How about you - are you hesitant using time on childrens clothes?

Happy sewing

Mette

The Sew What Club: Maren Dress

This is a brief intermission from my fall sewing plans. Sigrid needed a new dress for a birthday party, I had this liberty fabric in my stash and along came the Maren Dress Pattern from The Sew What Club. It was meant to be.

The dress has a small peter pan collar, kimono sleeves and a dropwaist design with pleats. It comes in size 2-12 years old.

I don't know if you have heard of The Sew What Club? It's a subsription for pdf patterns. You get to choose between the childrens edition with two patterns a month or the women edition with one pattern a month. The patterns are designed by different indie designers - The Maren Dress is designed by Hey June Handmade.

With two girls it's great getting new inspiration on what to make for them. I didn't think the Maren Dress pattern was to Selma's (10 years) liking, but she has requested one in chambray. I guess a chambray version will be less cutesy than this floral liberty version. Better get on with that.

The dress came together easily. I didn't follow the instruction, but they appear to be clear. I changed the back keyhole to a smaller slit, since the fall season here in Denmark require a vest underneath. I subsequently changed the back facings and added a small roleau and button.

Here you can see the pleats. They are distributed towards the sideseams.

Sigrid was so happy with her new dress. I really should make more dresses while she still prefer the handmade to the storebought dresses.

I have a few items to show you from my fall sewing list as soon as I get photos. I guess the list wasn't quite complete, since new patterns suddently jumped the queue.. Sewing is a hobby so it's okay to bend the rules sometimes right?

Do share your fall sewing plans. What are you working on?

Happy sewing

Mette

Oh Coco! - classic jacket for fall

The Coco jacket from Schnittchen Patterns is the first item to get ticked off my fall sewing list. - I still feel all organized following my plan. Lets see how long it will last before I start a new sewing project on a whim...

From the Schnittchen Patterns website:
Coco convinces through its plain cut, rounded corners and 3⁄4 length sleeves. It is fully lined.


I can confirm that the Coco convinces me. I love this jacket. I rarely feel that about a new item, but this is one of those rare moments when colour, pattern and fabric choice just make everything so worth it.

I made a few changes to the pattern. First of all I added snaps - I even bought one of those tools to set them in. I think the snaps give a classic jacket a more modern edge. Then I added four selfdrafted pockets in two different sizes to keep a classic vibe.

This is my first time working with bouclé. It's a tricky fabric where the fraying was almost driving me nuts. I made sure to cut a 3 cm seamallowance and then I did a zig zag stich on all patternpiecec to prevent fraying. I used interfacing on the bouclé where I set in the snaps and on the facings. I also made a back stay on the top of the backpieces to prevent the jacket from stretching out. As a final touch I like to use piping in the seam between facings and lining. The pattern is well drafted and came together easily. I can really recommend this pattern as a go to pattern for a classic jacket.

I know my method of treating the bouclé is not the couture quilting method. I'm hoping this Coco jacket will give me the last bit of courage to finally tackling the black chanel fabric I bought to make "the real deal" with all the couture methods.

How is your fall sewing coming along? Next on my list is a silk shirt dress - have you got any tips for sewing with silk?


Happy sewing.

Mette


Pattern: Coco jacket from Schnittchen
Fabric: cotton bouclé from Paris - I can't remember the name of the fabric shop.

Fall sewing plans

Hello there!

I hope you all have had a nice summer. Mine definitely was. I spend two weeks in France and also enjoyed the (reasonably) good summer we've had here in Denmark this year.

France was brilliant! I spend the holiday touring around Paris and the western part of France with my hubby and three kiddos in an campercar. The countryside was beautiful, the weather was great and the wine and the cheese... But I know you don't stop by here for the wine and the cheese alone but also for the love of sewing. You wan't to know the dirty deeds. Yes I did some fabric shopping! Yes i bought 30 meters to kickstart my fall sewing! I bought some lovely bouclé, cotton, wool suiting and lots of silk. I'm not sure why it's so difficult (and expensive) to buy silk here in Denmark so I went a bit crazy in Paris where the selection and prices are a very different story to here.

I've started to collect a few ideas for what I'll sew for the upcoming season. This year I've decided to be more focused in my sewing and less impulsive.. Lets see how that will go.. I hope my keyword for this fall will be wearability.

I'm planning to use my bouclé to sew a Coco Jacket. I've made one (unblogged) version before and this pattern is a great basic if you want to dip your toe into jacket making. It's a simple and rather easy pattern, but it still features a two piece sleeve and it's lined. On my first version I added welt pockets but I think I'll go for classic patch pockets in the fraying bouclé. I'm hoping making the Coco will give me courage to start making the real deal: a chanel bouclé jacket with all the couture features. I have had all the supplies for this for over a year but I can't get over my fear of ruining it all so I haven't dared making it yet...

I have seen that turtle necks are back this fall and think I'll have a go if I can find som decent jersey. I'm planning to use this burdastyle pattern:

Kirsten, Kirsten - I'll never tire of this pattern. It's a classic in my wardrobe and I'll make a few more for to wear with jackets and cardigans this fall. Did I mention the pattern is a free download?

I have a really nice grey ponte in my stash that will work well for this pattern. I really like the asymmetric pleating and the zipper in the back.

As soon as I saw this in the august number of Burdastyle I knew I had to make it. It will be perfect in the blue og black stretch silk I bought in Paris. The pattern is plussize, but I'm not too concerned about sizing down since its a loosefitting dress.

I bought the Wenona Dress pattern by Named Clothing back in spring but this is really a dress for fall and winter. I really like the lines and I hope this will be a winner for winter.

I'm hoping to make a few a-line wool skirts too and a kimono.. I hope this plan will keep me from fabricshopping (too much) since I already have the fabric for most on this list.

I think I like sewing for fall even more, than summerdresses. I really like the texture and colours in the fabrics for fall. How about you - are you excited about sewing for the next season or do you prefer the summerdresses? Have you started planning? Have you any other surgestions for cool fall patterns?

Happy sewing


Mette

The Top Issue

Just stopped by to say hi!

I have been having a big crush on Instagram lately and have been neglecting my poor blogg. I still like to write blogpost and connect with you guys, and I shall try to make it up to you. In the meantime I'll show you what I have been up to top-wise in the last few month. Without futher ado I present to you the Sewbluedresses Top Issue:


Cotton silk pleated t-shirt

This is the The Pleated T-shirt by Salme Patterns made in a lovely cotton-silk blend I bought from a new danish on-line fabric shop called Fabricminds. Oh how I love this shop already. They carry a nice selection of designer and high end fabrics. Enough to feed all your dreams. They ship to Denmark, Norway and Sweeden but do contact them for shipping information if you live elsewhere. I made the top a year ago as a wearable muslin in a viscose of some sort, but this fabric is an entirely different league (no, I do not get sponsered by Fabricminds - but is very much open to the idea:))


Archer in the garden

Another favorite pattern of mine - and my go-to pattern for classic, oversize shirt is the Archer Shirt from Grainline Studio . I've made this pattern 3 times before and knew it would be right for this drapy viscose fabric (and yes it is a homemade selfdrafted lace cami under the shirt). This is possibly the best viscose fabric I've bought and I knew I had to use every last scrap of it - therefore I used the rest for this:

Burda blouse for hot weather

I knew I wanted a v-neck so I browsed through my old Burdastyle Magazines. I found a tuniq in the plus size section of the march edition from 2013. I cut the pattern shorter, lifted the v-neck by 3 cm and took it in a bit at the sides. It's an oversize blouse so I wasn't too concerned about fit. I only had enough of the expensive designer viscose for the front so I bought some plain viscose from Stof og Stil - and what a remarkable difference in quality. I'm sure the front of the blouse will hold up beautifully, but not too sure about the back...

Closet workhorse Archer in white

This is yet another version of the Archer pattern from Grainline Studio. This time made in gorgeous white Liberty fabric I bought of Ebay. I've actually never owned a classic white shirt so it was about time. I made it back in may and have used it a lot since.

Simplicity 1366: duck egg blue sandwashed silk

This is yet another version of my beloved Simplicity 1366. I've made it two times before and it's a good basic pattern to show off nice fabric. I like to use simple patterns when I use difficult (expensive) fabrics. This is sandwashed silk from Stof og Stil. It's a lovely quality and wasn't too shifty to cut into. I made sure to do all the right things. Staystich, french seams etc. As a simple design feature I cut a back slit late one night - which by mistake ended up in the front.. This hasn't prevented me from using this blouse a lot - but next time I'm cutting slits I'll make sure they go on the right side.

Simplicity 1366: the cheap version

This doesn't come near the silk simplicity 1366. It's a (cheap) viscose twill from Stof og Stil. I really like the pattern and the colours but the fabric just feel too cheap. I have only been wearing this a couple of times since I made it, so I guess that the price pr. time a garment gets worn can be high - eventhough the fabric initially was cheap. (good excuse to buy better fabric from now!).

Afternoon Blouse

This is the Afternoon Blouse pattern by Jennifer Lauren Vintage I'm not really that into vintage patterns, but I really like this shape. I've made it twice so far and maybe I'll make one more in plain black. For this version I used viscose crepe from Stof og Stil . I like the texture of this fabric and plan to use aaaall the colours available.

Plantain scoop neck tee

I have a few tried and true knit t-shirt patterns that works everytime for me. This is the (free) Plantain t-shirt from Deer and Doe. I like the scoop neck and the slighly flared style. Makes good room for them hips:). The fabric is a nice viscose jersey from Stofdepotet. I have been hoarding this fabric and have been saving every little scrap to use for details in t-shirts and so on.

Pineapple Plantain

This is another Plantain
This time with short sleeves. I used this really cool pineapple fabric from Aime Comme Marie bought at Metermeter. I think the print looks really cool, but I'm so disappointed in the quality of the fabric. I'm not too sure it will hold op in the wash for more than a few times. I washed the fabric before cutting into it and it already looks a bit frumpy (and so do I, when I think of the price..)

Lace cami

I love lace - it ads a bit of everyday luxury. This is a stretch lace bought locally at Rita Stoffer (no website). It stretches beautifully and feels wonderful. I used and old tanktop to make the pattern. It's a fast make and will surely not be the last lacetop I make.


Alice Top

The fabric shop Tessuti from Australia also sell their own pdf patterns. I downloaded the Alice Top from their website. The patterned fabric is thrifted silk crepe de chine from a dress and the solid is of unknown content from stash. I'm however not to sure this style suits me, but will give it a go this summer.


Sutton Blouse by True Bias

The last one - and then I'll shut up - promise! - is the Sutton Blouse by True Bias. Kelli from True Bias is the genious behind The Hudson Pants. The Sutton Blouse is for drapy fabrics and feature a yoke, v-neck and a flowy sillouette. I made this using a subtle leopard jaquard weave white viscose from Citystoffer. Citystoffer only offers a small part of their fabrics online, but do pay them a visit if you are in Aarhus. They have a great selection of dressweight fabrics. The Sutton Blouse came together easily, but you have to make sure, you are precise, when finishing the v-neck. It's a great blouse for warm weather, but can also be used with a cardi, when the weather cools down again.

So, that's it! I guess I have enough tops for the time being (who am I kidding - never enough!). I'll make a childrens issue soon - and maybe a dress version..

Have you made any sundresses yet? I'm always pondering if I'll bother to make a sundress here in the danish climate, since there's rarely (and sadly) any occation to wear it, but this year I think I'll make one since we are going to France on holiday! I'm so excited - better make a sundress with enough room in the stomach area since both cheese and fabricshopping is on the to-do-list:) Have you got any favorite sundress pattern and can you recommend any good fabric shops in Paris?


Happy sewing

Mette